Mod 5: The Chef Chris Show
Image courtesy of Institute of Culinary Education
So much to report, dear readers, I hardly know where to begin (which is probably why one week off from blogging turned to
four five in a flash).
By the end of Module 4, our class had garnered such a reputation for chaos—due squarely to the shenanigans of Big Bird and Bubba Gump, that ICE decided to send in the big guns. Chef Chris Gesualdi started poking around in our classroom toward the end of Mod 4, having us clean out the supply cage or underneath the tables, to begin giving us a taste for what lay in store. Chef Chris is, far as I can tell, ICE’s most commanding and formidable instructor. Prior to arriving at ICE, he was the longtime chef at Montrachet. He created what was to become the now-shuttered Tribeca French spot’s signature dish, Truffle-Crusted Salmon. In the 1980s, he worked with Thomas Keller at Restaurant Raphael and then at the first restaurant Keller owned, Rakel, all before Keller moved out West to make a big name for himself at The French Laundry.
Here’s what Ruth Reichl said about Montrachet, and Chef Chris’ salmon, in her 1994 review:
The kitchen is also well run: when Debra Ponzek, the talented young woman who had been chef since 1986, relinquished the range to her sous-chef, Chris Gesualdi, a few months ago, the transition was so smooth that few patrons were aware of the change.
This is probably because Montrachet has always had a style of its own, and each chef falls under the restaurant’s spell. The food is refined yet aggressive. Its strength lies less in technique than in the quality of ingredients and the finesse with which they are combined. The food, like the service, seems effortless.
Consider the salmon. It looks like an ordinary piece of salmon that has been beautifully cooked. But the top is dusted with a truffle crust that puts such a spin on the fish it does not taste like salmon with truffles but like some entirely new and utterly delicious creature. Pairing the fish with grilled fennel and artichokes encourages this new-flavor sensation.
You get the idea. He’s serious.
We were all a bit nervous, if excited, to finally have a chef who would bring up the level of play. Turns out, while he is indeed demanding, he is not withering, Gordon Ramsay-style. His mantra, which he says repeatedly every class is “Keep it clean; make it beautiful.”
He engages us to do our best work—this is more important to him than our speed or any culinary pyrotechnics.
To that latter point, his favorite cautionary wag to us whenever we are given creative license is this:
“I may be a guinea, but I’m not a guinea pig.”
Under Chef Chris’ tutelage, we have had some of our most fun and edifying classes: cooking master chef dishes (Mario Batali, Ming Tsai, Daniel Boulud, Rick Bayless…would have done Thomas Keller but instead Chef tasked us with a 4-hour class devoted to improving our knife skills), hors d’oeuvres, sausage-making, terrines, pates, mousselines, gallantines roulades, smoked meats and fish.
We have also been charged with bringing our A game, every class. This, as you might imagine, is harder for some of us than others (more on that).
It feels like yesterday when I began this journey, which has turned out to be bigger than culinary trade training, but next Saturday is my graduation ceremony from ICE.
I’m sure you have many questions and curiosities. A look back, and ahead, to follow.